Random personal logs

Saturday, August 30, 2014

Cordoba, Sevilla and Madrid+

This trip to Spain gave me many unexpected good surprises. We traveled to Barcelona before, and we were told that the rest of Spain is quite different from the province of Catalonia. On this trip, we discovered that not just Barcelona is different, even Southern Spain (the province of Andalusia) is quite different from central Spain. We noticed that Spanish people love to line up and congregate in crowds. They exhibit passion for life and work (in some). The day starts and ends late. Regular lunch starts at 2pm, dinner at 8pm. Throughout the day, if you are hungry, there are always tapas bars open on the streets. Tapas here are slightly different from that in North America. They're smaller portions (racions) of dishes. They can be as simple as potato salads, omelets (tortillas), pickled things, sandwiches, olives, paella , and grilled vegetables; or delicacies as tripe, pork ears, and seafood. It depends on what the owner/chef can cook or get from the markets. The simpler ones are 4 to 5 euro each. Some places offer slightly cheaper prices if you sit at the bar. A word of warning: Spain is very HOT during summer months. The temperature can get higher than 35 degree Celsius. We got so tanned for visiting in late August. 

Spain is quite mountainous. It's said that Spain is the 3rd most mountainous country in continental Europe (after Switzerland and Austria). Southern Spain's got a strong Moorish influence. Around 12th century, Moorish people traversed across North Africa to south of Spain. They conquered regions along Rio Guadalquivir. Cordoba and Sevilla are two such cities. Cordoba can be reached by fast train (AVE) from Madrid in under 2 hours. Sevilla is about another 30 min from Cordoba. The train tickets aren't very expensive. You can save some money if you purchase the tickets online in advance (renfe.es). I would highly recommend visiting these 2 cities. You only need about half a day in Cordoba and about 6 hours in Sevilla. The Mezquita in Cordoba and the Real Alcazar in Sevilla alone are worth the trip. You can see the contrast and yet the harmony of both the Islamic and Christian culture. Both of these cities aren't too touristy. The people aren't scamming like the people in Barcelona. They're quite friendly in fact. They don't speak much English, but their willingness to help overcame the language barrier.

Cordoba photos link: https://plus.google.com/photos/113880069774612153445/albums/6051795927834825489?authkey=CNKWrevok_7pYQ

Sevilla photos link: https://plus.google.com/photos/113880069774612153445/albums/6051801150480780833?authkey=CO7B_5DT_OCHWA

We spent about a week in Madrid, using it as a base to travel to Segovia, Toledo and El Escorial.  Segovia is part of the castle group of Castilla y Leon. It's about 30 min fast train (AVANT) ride from Madrid (Chamartin Station, not Atocha). Buy return tickets (20.30 euro) and you can save about 4 euro. Take a bus (#11) from the Segovia train station to the aqueducts. The Roman aqueducts and the alcazar (castle) are very impressive. Segovia is also famous for its suckling pig (cochinillo). We had about 1/6 of a whole pig and that was 14 euro. The pig tasted very tender and juicy, not like pork at all, more like chicken. We went to the palace of La Granja de San Ildefonso to see the water fountains afterwards. The palace is about 20 min bus ride from the Estacion de Autobuses from Segovia. We were there on August 25, a holiday. All fountains ran at 5:30pm (supposedly) and the entrance to the garden was free. Turned out that the fountains ran one after another in turn. The crowds just pushed from one fountain to the next. The garden was nice, but I think the water show wasn't that impressive.

Segovia
photos link: https://plus.google.com/photos/113880069774612153445/albums/6051882559508702161?authkey=CIn1t5ez6pT2Wg

Toledo is about 30 min fast train (AVANT) away from Madrid (Atocha). 20.30 euro for return tickets. It's a mountain city. Be prepared to climb a lot of mild slopes. There are many old gates, walls and bridges to see. El Greco resided in Toledo. A lot of the religious structure house his work. Simple strolling about the old city was very pleasant. The views along the sides are beautiful too.

Toledo
photos link: https://plus.google.com/photos/113880069774612153445/albums/6052960430631390513?authkey=CNys-YKA9LnZWg

The Monasterio de El Escorial (The Royal Seat of San Lorenzo de El Escorial) is about 1 hour commuter train ride (Cercanias C3 or C8 line) from Madrid. It's a humble royal residence and burial site of many Spanish kings. Valle de los Caidos (The Valley of the fallen) is a controversial site just about 20 min bus ride from El Escorial bus station. General Francisco Franco built the huge cross and a basilica inside the mountain underneath to commemorate those that had fallen during the Spanish Civil War. The site is a structural magnificence; however, on the other hand it demonstrates Franco's power during his dictatorship. "10% of the construction workforce consisted of convicts, some of whom were ... political prisoners." [Wikipedia] Franco and Jose Antonio Primo de Rivera (founder of the Falange Espanola party) were buried inside the basilica, on opposite sides from the altar. There's an abbey on the back side of the cross. The structure does seem to require constant monitor and maintenance. Water marks are clearly visible on the roof and walls inside the Basilica. There are even "buckets" placed in random places to catch the seeping water. Extrusions can be seen on the walls. 

El Escorial and the Valle de los Caidos
photos link: https://plus.google.com/photos/113880069774612153445/albums/6053003082932190081?authkey=CNmwpdnrk4qO5wE

There are many nice art museums in Madrid, such as the Museo del Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza, and Reina Sofia. Almost all museums in Madrid can be visited for free at some time during the week. Del Prado is free from 6-8pm on the days they open. Thyssen is free on Monday afternoons. Reina Sofia is free from 7-9pm, and also from 1:30 to 7pm on Sundays. There's also a combined ticket for all 3 museums at about 25 euro. If you plan well, you can save some money. There are some interesting gates, plazas, fountains and structure in Madrid. At Puerta del Sol, there's a tile "Km 0" that marks the centre of Spain's road network.  

Madrid
photos link: https://plus.google.com/photos/113880069774612153445/albums/6051885756328737489?authkey=CNLqvsjigJ-L5AE

Trip planning tips:
1. In Madrid, buy the Metrobus (10 ride ticket) for Metro. It can be used with multi-travellers. It's 12.20 for 10 trips. A single trip ticket is 1.50 (for 5 stations)+0.10 (per extra station), maxed at 2.00. Unless you're doing less than 6 trips, it's definitely worth it.

2. In Madrid, almost all museums can be visited for free at some point during the week. Check the websites. There's a combi ticket at around 25 euro for del Prado, Thyssen and Reina Sofia. You save about 9 euro.

3. Check Spanish train schedule and prices beforehand at renfe.es.  Buy tickets in advance (esp. for AVE or faster trains) can save you money. For single day round trip travel on AVANT trains, buy round trip tickets can save money. You can change the return ticket times at the return station anytime before your return train time. 

4. Practical info for going to the Valley of the Fallen: There's a round trip bus that takes you directly to the monument at 3:15 and back at 5:30 for about 12 euro (entrance fee included) from the bus station in El Escorial. The bus number is 660A. They only sell the bus tickets for the day at 3 pm. The station is on Calle Juan de Toledo almost to Calle Canada Nueva (Southwest corner). The Cercanias ticket to El Escorial is about 4 euro one way. Saves you a lot of money to go on your own than buying the guided half day tour.